2 Warlords - Painting Dark Imperium
Howdy Guys and Girls and welcome to a new weekly series - 2 Warlords!
In the next weeks, we’re gonna paint the contents of “Dark Imperium” - after that, we will see! Bob is doing Blood Angels while I’m painting my Death Guard with their heresy era scheme - ready for the Siege of Terra!
Let’s take a look on what we worked this week:
I decided to start with the cute bloat drone - it allowed me to try the colour scheme and it didn’t need any transfer sheets. The model is gorgeous and I hope we see an untainted Stratos-Automata version down the line.
I used a similar recipe to Paul Rudge’s for the white:
Primer of Corax White
Basecoat of Typhon Ash (airbrush)
Zenithal coat of Typhon Ash mixed with a bit of white (airbrush)
Layer of Seraphim Sepia mixed with lots of lots of FW airbrush Clear (brush)
Edge Highlights and weathering
Next on my painting table is the Malignant Plaguecaster!
Also a shot of the bloat drone next to some Plaguebearers:
Paints used for the red armor :
Black Primer (vallejo)
Zenithal 45° with vallejo grey primer
Zenithal 90° with vallejo white primer
Mephiston red air glaze on all the model with airbrush.
Black lining all the armor plates Flatblack (scale75)
Wildrider Orange highlight on every edge
Wildrider Orange free hand parallel to every dark line
Leather holster and bags are painted with :
Basecoat of Bootstrap Leather (P3)
Shaded with Battlefield Brown (p3)
Final shading was made with a mix of Battlefield Brown and Black 70/30.
Highlight is Rucksack Tan (p3)
Lining with Rucksack Tan (p3)
Stippling with Rucksack Tan (p3). I made a small dot of diluted Rucksack Tan with the tips of a drybrush-brush to create the effect of leather. (Angel Giraldez explains it in his book if you want more info)
The power sword :
To make power sword like this you need an airbrush (or serious blending skill with a brush) and masking tape.
First mask a side of the blade like this
You see the mask is in the middle of the blade, and make a very clean separation.
White Primer ( vallejo white primer)
Light blue blend (sky blue air vallejo)
Royal Blue blend (french blue air vallejo)
Dark Blue blend (signal blue air vallejo)
The effect is better if you do each side in a separate direction (white top for one and bottom for the other).
Each time reduce the area of the blend to conserve a small part of the color.
For more details check this tutorial : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7me7OB3XP0
Metal, gold, gun, black :
Metal is : Vallejo metal steel, dark shade(army painter) , silver lining Vallejo metal.
Gold is : Vallejo Metal gold, dark shade(army painter) , silver lining Vallejo metal.
Black is : Flatblack scale 75, then astronomican grey + white.
Seal is : purple + white.
Parchment is : Rucksack tan + strong shade and hilight with menoth white base.
3 things are still missing :
1 gem on the blade and the base.
For the base I want to go lava style but I’m going to do all them in one go! (I will post a tutorial on how to do this)
For the gem, I’m not sure of the color or the technique I want to try. But I’d like to have all the power swords with the same gem style. Will paint them once everything is complete.
Transfer Sheets - I ordered micro set and micro sol but it didn’t arrived yet :(
We hope you like our progress - see ya next week :)
Lady Atia and Bob
Painting red Marines the easy way
Hello everyone !!
8th is around the corner and maybe you plan to paint a new army or paint a grey one that have been collecting dust ;).
Red is often considered a problem color. And I used to agree until a painter(a real one) explained to me how to paint red the smart way.
To do this we need to think about the pro and cons of red.
Can't highlight with white. (you get pink)
Translucent paint .
So red is a paint that you can see trough !! unless you do multiple coats.
With that in mind, I want to share an easy way to paint blood angel(and red) using an Airbrush.
You don't need an expensive one to do this, i did it with with a 17$ Chinese airbrush to see if i was working.
It's even possible to do it with spray paint can and brush, but it take a bit of skill to get the glaze right (it's super good training thought)
Red paint is translucent so we usually prime white to get good coverage in 2 thing coats.
This time we are going to use a black preshading + white zenithal to change the red coverage on the model.
Enough blabla let's get to it!
Nothing special here you just prime the model black using the method you prefer.
If you plan to play with your mini it's better to use a good old gw black(Thin and sturdy.)
We are going to use the black as a preshading to skip the shading part (usually done with an ink in gw video).
Faster and cleaner as you don't need to clean the stains ink's wash tend to do.
Now that we have shade, we need to highlight. No rocket science here just spray white from the top of the model to simulate the light coming from the sky ! (from the zenith)
If you don't have an airbrush you can do it with a white spray can. And if you have only brush and paint, you can do it with a HEAVY white dry-brush (more like an overbrush) but only by the top.
You should get something like this :
The model should look white while looking from top and Dark while looking from bottom.
Now it's time to spray red, the tricks is to get a very very very very thin paint. Something close to a glaze (85% water/15 paint). It's easier to spray it but you can do it with a brush too. No need to spray at a particular angle you are going to do coats and coats of paint until you like the red !.
ps: If you do it with a brush it's a good glazing training, same dilution, only LITTLE paint on the brush (no seriously very little) it should dry in less than 1 minutes. ALWAYS use the flat of the brush from dark to light. Alternatively you can do it with a red ink or even the gw red wash^^.
After 1 coat :
After one coat the model look very bad and it's normal. The paint sprayed is very thinned down and very little at a time.
Correct procedure should be : One short burst of paint then one short burst of air, rotate the model, repeat.
Don't worry, it's not time consuming, alternating paint and air is actually very fast once you are used too and you can do a whole model in 3 minutes.
Result After 5 or 6 coats (didn't even took 3 minutes.) :
Maybe it's not apparent on the image but you get a very nice red (used Mephiston red from gw but you can do it with any red.).
The best part is you get a nice blend of dark red to light red without doing anything complex.
I'll be honest this is not a studio level technique but there are a lot of way to refine it. (more on this in a later article on my red Primaris ^^)
Black lining is the solution to increase the color separation (so your eyes record easily part separation)
Take black paint and a nice brush (one with a crisp point) and draw small black line to separate armor zone, or details .
The goal is something like this :
(sloppily executed but you get the idea)
Nothing special here orange on the edge of the armor and if you feel motivated you can draw orange line next to the black line to improve contrast.
note : Black lining and edge highlight are techniques that take a little time to get used to. But once you get the muscle memory it's fast(ish) and increase the quality of your painting.
2 tips :
1)Use the side of the brush for edge highlight.
2) Hold the brush like a pen and not like Picasso working on a 2by2 canvas ^^
All that left is painting details : seal, metal tube and so on.
From priming to edge highlight it took me 30 minutes i guess. Y
It took a lot more time writing this than painting it ^^
You can even increase the speed by doing batch of models.
Prime the full squad.
Zenithal the full squad.
Glaze red the full squad.
Black line the full squad.
Edge highlight and orange lining the full squad.
Use base color to correct the full squad.
Paint used :
-Wild rider red (gw orange)
-scale 75 flat black
-vallejo air white
There are many way to take this model to the next level, i will make another post about this.
I hope you liked it and it help you paint red space marines.