Hello everyone !!

Lan studio released a wip of NMM on a bust from black crow miniatures (Luther).
I was so impressed by the painting that i had to share it with you all. It could really be the most amazing NMM i ever saw on a model.

In case you didn't know Lan Studio/Michal Pisarski is the slayer sword winner and crystal brush runner up with his Nagash diorama

his facebook : https://www.facebook.com/LanArtStudio
his CMON page : http://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/Lan+Studio?browseid=3013189
Bust is from here : https://www.facebook.com/blackcrowminiatures

Not going to paint tonight that for sure ^^

/cheers.
bob.

hello everyone !!

This is the best video you will see today :D
A painting tutorial by Kujo about blue steel, it's quite close to the Ben Komets Dark sea blue metal, but without the green.
Anyway even if you don't plan to use these colors the method and the explanations are definitively worth your time. !!

10/10 !
Kujo painting channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyMPU99KvmxIMkD8NZQu1tA

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Duncan released a new painting tutorial, this time for the lord of contagion !
very nice and easy (but not as good as atia colors ^^)

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2017/06/15/part-4-painting-the-lord-of-contagion-june15gw-homepage-post-4/

/cheers.
bob.

Howdy Guys and Girls and welcome to a new weekly series - 2 Warlords!

In the next weeks, we’re gonna paint the contents of “Dark Imperium” - after that, we will see! Bob is doing Blood Angels while I’m painting my Death Guard with their heresy era scheme - ready for the Siege of Terra!


Let’s take a look on what we worked this week:

Atia’s Death Guard - Foetid Bloat-drone

I decided to start with the cute bloat drone - it allowed me to try the colour scheme and it didn’t need any transfer sheets. The model is gorgeous and I hope we see an untainted Stratos-Automata version down the line.

I used a similar recipe to Paul Rudge’s for the white:

Primer of Corax White
Basecoat of Typhon Ash (airbrush)
Zenithal coat of Typhon Ash mixed with a bit of white (airbrush)
Layer of Seraphim Sepia mixed with lots of lots of FW airbrush Clear (brush)
Edge Highlights and weathering

Next on my painting table is the Malignant Plaguecaster!

Also a shot of the bloat drone next to some Plaguebearers:

Bob - Blood Angels Primaris Lieutenant

Paints used for the red armor :
Black Primer (vallejo)
Zenithal 45° with vallejo grey primer
Zenithal 90° with vallejo white primer
Mephiston red air glaze on all the model with airbrush.
Black lining all the armor plates Flatblack (scale75)
Wildrider Orange highlight on every edge
Wildrider Orange free hand parallel to every dark line

Leather holster and bags are painted with :
Basecoat of Bootstrap Leather (P3)
Shaded with Battlefield Brown (p3)
Final shading was made with a mix of Battlefield Brown and Black 70/30.
Highlight is Rucksack Tan (p3)
Lining with Rucksack Tan (p3)
Stippling with Rucksack Tan (p3). I made a small dot of diluted Rucksack Tan with the tips of a drybrush-brush to create the effect of leather. (Angel Giraldez explains it in his book if you want more info)

The power sword :

To make power sword like this you need an airbrush (or serious blending skill with a brush) and masking tape.

First mask a side of the blade like this

You see the mask is in the middle of the blade, and make a very clean separation.
then :
White Primer ( vallejo white primer)
Light blue blend (sky blue air vallejo)
Royal Blue blend (french blue air vallejo)
Dark Blue blend (signal blue air vallejo)
black dot.

The effect is better if you do each side in a separate direction (white top for one and bottom for the other).

Each time reduce the area of the blend to conserve a small part of the color.
For more details check this tutorial : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7me7OB3XP0

Metal, gold, gun, black :

Metal is : Vallejo metal steel, dark shade(army painter) , silver lining Vallejo metal.
Gold is : Vallejo Metal gold, dark shade(army painter) , silver lining Vallejo metal.
Black is : Flatblack scale 75, then astronomican grey + white.
Seal is : purple + white.
Parchment is : Rucksack tan + strong shade and hilight with menoth white base.


3 things are still missing :

1 gem on the blade and the base.
For the base I want to go lava style but I’m going to do all them in one go! (I will post a tutorial on how to do this)

For the gem, I’m not sure of the color or the technique I want to try. But I’d like to have all the power swords with the same gem style. Will paint them once everything is complete.

Transfer Sheets - I ordered micro set and micro sol but it didn’t arrived yet :(

We hope you like our progress - see ya next week :)

Regards,
Lady Atia and Bob

Morning everyone !!!

I finished the zenithal on my primaris.

As a reminder, my painting posts are here
Post 1 : https://war-of-sigmar.herokuapp.com/bloggings/2104
Post 2 : https://war-of-sigmar.herokuapp.com/bloggings/2125

Hot Glue Gun
To gain time i used a tool i saw on a video a few month ago, where the painter was using hot glue gun to chain attach models to plasticards for super fast airbrushing. It was the first time i used the hot glue gun on a large number of models but it went smoothly, nothing difficult here. Plug the gun, draw a line of glue, place the base on the glue. Dry in 15 seconds, miniatures are safely attached but you can remove the glue with your nails easily.


4 bands of plasticard and attached Primaris.(i know they are already primed but the non primed photo was too blurry^^)

I was then ready to prime them all in one go :
Primed black with GW black, then i primed grey with Vallejo grey primer at 45° angle, then 90° white zenithal with Vallejo white primer.

Result :

Then I did the weapon separately :

For a good usage of Vallejo primer : Use high pressure (2 bars), spray close, thin with vallejo thinner, make 2 thin pass. Let it cure overnight.

The whole step from gluing, cutting, priming and cleaning the airbrush took less than 1h30.(super fast.)
Starting the red shortly i will keep track of time for the red glaze step.

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone

Michal Pisarsla AKA Lan Studio released a bunch of image for his Nagash diorama.
What a beauty !!

https://www.facebook.com/LanArtStudio/

One of the best composition ever presented !!
Damn, the NMM is out of this world ^^

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!!

This is the continuation of the last tutorial (painting red : LINK
If you didn't read it, stop here and check it out before continuing ;)

Let's start !

As usual i started with Priming black with a GW can.

It's worth noting that i kept, head, bolter + arms and main body separate.

Look a the new bolters arms connector

Grey zenithal

At first i planned to do everything with thinned white but it's faster to a grey pass ! You get a very good gradient and it's easier.
Of course i had to clean the airbrush but if you do the whole starter set or a bunch of red marines in one go it's worth it.
Just do it with a 45°/60° angle and not 90° like normal zénithal.

For reference :
Grey zénithal at 45°



White zénithal at 90°

My white zenithal

Getting cute and smooth transition very easily. I swear you can do it with nearly no skill with an airbrush and even with a cheap Chinese made.

RED
Took super thinned down red at 8 waters 2 paints
Not mephisto red because i left my pot open the other day and it's all dried now. I used scale75 red.

1 pass

6 or 7 pass

I know it's shinny ! It's because i took the pic before the model was completely dry.

Black lining

Nothing special here, take black and paint line between armor plates^^.
If you use a dark color but not black, the result will look more realist and less "comics"
From here it's nearly complete on the red. All that left is painting edge highlight with Wild Rider Red from gw.

Completed model :

Bolter was painted black with grey lining.
Metal is : Boltgun, nuln oil, lining.
Leather pouch : used my old snakebite leather + tank brown from vallejo and white for hilight.
Chest-plate is : brown, gold, sepia wash, silver overbrush.
Edge highlight with Wild Rider Red.

Nothing incredible but the result look nice, it's a lot better in real life as the red gradient don't show much on picture. I really tried to get a good picture of it but i failed ^^ Check the first red tutorial for better images.
I painted this one in 1h30 i think but you can do a lot faster by painting a batch of them it's Should not be too hard to get the time in the 1h or 45 minutes per marines.

Still wondering about the base maybe "Hero base" for everyone ^^

note : It was my first time painting a Primaris and i loved it. They are so much better than the old marines.
I am not sure i want a Primaris army but now i can't go back to old angels ! The new models are so cool i cant wait to start painting the rest of the starter kit.

Hope it help you paint red.

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

8th is around the corner and maybe you plan to paint a new army or paint a grey one that have been collecting dust ;).
Red is often considered a problem color. And I used to agree until a painter(a real one) explained to me how to paint red the smart way.
To do this we need to think about the pro and cons of red.

Cons
Bad coverage.
Can't highlight with white. (you get pink)

Pro
Translucent paint .
Glaze friendly

So red is a paint that you can see trough !! unless you do multiple coats.

With that in mind, I want to share an easy way to paint blood angel(and red) using an Airbrush.
You don't need an expensive one to do this, i did it with with a 17$ Chinese airbrush to see if i was working.
It's even possible to do it with spray paint can and brush, but it take a bit of skill to get the glaze right (it's super good training thought)

Red paint is translucent so we usually prime white to get good coverage in 2 thing coats.
This time we are going to use a black preshading + white zenithal to change the red coverage on the model.
Enough blabla let's get to it!

Priming the model

Nothing special here you just prime the model black using the method you prefer.
If you plan to play with your mini it's better to use a good old gw black(Thin and sturdy.)

We are going to use the black as a preshading to skip the shading part (usually done with an ink in gw video).
Faster and cleaner as you don't need to clean the stains ink's wash tend to do.

Zénithal Highlight

Now that we have shade, we need to highlight. No rocket science here just spray white from the top of the model to simulate the light coming from the sky ! (from the zenith)

If you don't have an airbrush you can do it with a white spray can. And if you have only brush and paint, you can do it with a HEAVY white dry-brush (more like an overbrush) but only by the top.


You should get something like this :

The model should look white while looking from top and Dark while looking from bottom.

Red glaze 1

Now it's time to spray red, the tricks is to get a very very very very thin paint. Something close to a glaze (85% water/15 paint). It's easier to spray it but you can do it with a brush too. No need to spray at a particular angle you are going to do coats and coats of paint until you like the red !.

ps: If you do it with a brush it's a good glazing training, same dilution, only LITTLE paint on the brush (no seriously very little) it should dry in less than 1 minutes. ALWAYS use the flat of the brush from dark to light. Alternatively you can do it with a red ink or even the gw red wash^^.

After 1 coat :



After one coat the model look very bad and it's normal. The paint sprayed is very thinned down and very little at a time.
Correct procedure should be : One short burst of paint then one short burst of air, rotate the model, repeat.
Don't worry, it's not time consuming, alternating paint and air is actually very fast once you are used too and you can do a whole model in 3 minutes.

Result After 5 or 6 coats (didn't even took 3 minutes.) :



Maybe it's not apparent on the image but you get a very nice red (used Mephiston red from gw but you can do it with any red.).
The best part is you get a nice blend of dark red to light red without doing anything complex.
I'll be honest this is not a studio level technique but there are a lot of way to refine it. (more on this in a later article on my red Primaris ^^)

Black lining

Black lining is the solution to increase the color separation (so your eyes record easily part separation)
Take black paint and a nice brush (one with a crisp point) and draw small black line to separate armor zone, or details .
The goal is something like this :



(sloppily executed but you get the idea)

Edge highlight and orange lining

Nothing special here orange on the edge of the armor and if you feel motivated you can draw orange line next to the black line to improve contrast.

note : Black lining and edge highlight are techniques that take a little time to get used to. But once you get the muscle memory it's fast(ish) and increase the quality of your painting.
2 tips :
1)Use the side of the brush for edge highlight.
2) Hold the brush like a pen and not like Picasso working on a 2by2 canvas ^^

All that left is painting details : seal, metal tube and so on.

From priming to edge highlight it took me 30 minutes i guess. Y
It took a lot more time writing this than painting it ^^

You can even increase the speed by doing batch of models.
ex :
Prime the full squad.
Zenithal the full squad.
Glaze red the full squad.
Black line the full squad.
Edge highlight and orange lining the full squad.
Use base color to correct the full squad.

Paint used :
-Mephiston red
-Wild rider red (gw orange)
-scale 75 flat black
-vallejo air white

There are many way to take this model to the next level, i will make another post about this.

I hope you liked it and it help you paint red space marines.

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Giraldez is streaming right now is air brush lesson in NaKama (spanish)

Click on the image to start de video

https://www.facebook.com/StudioGiraldez

/cheers.
bob.

Morning everyone !!

Kujo painting released the part 1 on 2 tutorial for his amazing Angron !!
very cool and instructive NMM method.
Watch it !

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyMPU99KvmxIMkD8NZQu1tA

/cheers.
Bob.