RedGrassGames new mini Handle review !
Hello everyone !!
Mini Handles have been multiplying these last 5 years. I remember a time when I used champagne cork and it was already an improvement over using my hand ^^ Now the market has a large number of options from 3D printed version, to the RGG Handle and off course the GW one.
I am already a big fan of the RedGrassGames Handle first edition. Ergonomic handle, 360° turning cap, Thin so you can easily paint under. I don't like how the GW handle is so large and make it hard to paint under the model.
Still, the first version had a few aspects that could be improved: stability of the handle when on the desk and the ability to swap models fast if you have one handle and multiple models to paint at the same time.
Now, RedGrassGames announced a new Handle and a Kickstarter campaign starting on the 21 May. They sent me the new Handleversion and some extra cap to test the product and do a quick review on it.
ps: I am not paid and have no obligation saying the Handle is good.
To me the first Handle was good. With only 2 problems but the first one bothered me a lot: the Stability of the Handle. A few times I bumped and made the Handle fall with the model still attached. I can attest the mounting putty holds very well even during a fall, but damn ! hated that.
RGG seem to address the problem with a magnetic base for this new version. I decided to do some test to check if that works out.
The Handle is now magnetic and delivered with a small metal plate with Strong Double tape under it.
Great idea huh? but does it achieve stability? I tested this setup and I admit it works very well, the magnet is quite strong. the Tape under the metal base is insanely powerful. I tested it and nearly broke my nail removing it ^^ So think before sticking it somewhere.
Note the image is a bit misleading, the Magnet is NOT the metal plate but inside the Handle. It's ideal as you can use a tiny thin sheet of metal, if the small round metal plate is not enough or if you want an extra spot to magnetize the handle. In my case, I am going to set a small metal sheet (20cm * 20 cm) on the desk in front of me and probably cover it with a paper sheet (the magnet is strong enough to do this)
You could also stick the metal round plate to the cover of the wet palette and use it as a base when you open the palette (Neat !)
Truly, it's a great idea, the Handle is still thin and agile, but now super stable. Also, I can now stock my Handle(s) on my painting lamp.
Note: I compared the old and the new handle and there are the same weight 45 Grams (the Gw one is 56 grams)
Honestly, this magnetic solution is awesome. It's elegant, don't weight more, hold very well. To me, it makes the RGG handle the best option on the market right now.
Now let's check the problem 2, Model Switching when batch painting multiple models with one Handle.
The difficulty when you use Putty to hold models on a Handle is switching them. Attaching the model to the handle with putty takes a lot more time than the GW springs mechanism, and removing the model takes as long. So unless you have one handle per model it's not an option for Batch painting.
RGG appear to have addressed this problem with a removable cap :
The cap is easily removable but also don't fall off if you turn the handle upside down. Even with a metal model attached to it!
yea don't try this at home but notice how the magnet is strong enough to hold on the edge of the Lamp frame with a 40mil metal model (and a big fat one).
Also, note that once removed, the cap is very stable and there is no chance to have falling models.
The new RGG handle is without contest my favourite. Now that the bottom of the handle is magnetized and the top is removable and still360° orientable it's near perfect!
I don't know the price of the new Kickstarter but if it stays in the same prince range (10€) it's a great improvement. Also, they plan to sell metal bases and top cap pack, so we will have to wait on the price too. Ideally, I would like one handle and 10/12 caps with putty on it for around the same price of the GW handle
Check their website for more info and if you have questions you can post them here, I'll ask them for you.
Kickstarter of the 21 May, note you can also get a paper version of their free painting book by Angel Giraldez if you do the Kickstarter.
Miniature Painting Made Easy by Angel Giraldez for Redgrassgames
Hello everyone !!
The awesome Giraldez and the super nice peoples at RedGrassGames have teamed up to offer up for free a nice painting book. It's very informative and aimed at people learning the trade, still the technique shown are well explained and should be used as a good base.
or on Scribd
Fun Fact : The Witcher paints Custodes !
Hello everyone !!
Henry Cavill (The witcher / Superman) posted a tweet showing him painting a Custodes.
I have to admit he looks kind of a cool guy!
Happy Easter everyone.
Hobby : Painting video to watch !
Hello everyone !!!
To help people in Quarantine, Sergio Calvo released a set of video on youtube. Previously these where Patreon only. This set of 4 videos explain his method on a 28mm model. Honestly it's not always super clear to understand what he mean but damn i love his method !!
They are also available in Spanish if you prefer
Duncan Two thin coat starting a Youtube Channel !!
Hello everyone !!
Duncan Rhodes, Mr two thin coat himself is launching his Youtube Channel about painting !!
I am curious was his style going to be now that he's free from the GW shackles ^^
Hobby Life : Adopt a good painting position.
Hello everyone !!
Sitting in the right position when painting is very important especially when you do long session ^^ Today I found this post of Facebook.
Disclaimer : Tom Taylor Bigg made this post on Eavier Metal Facebook Group to give advice on how to have better sitting position while painting. Images and Text are from him as well !!
I’m a massage and physical therapist – I work with people with back, neck and shoulder pain every day. I see quite a few people in the hobby talk about back pain and discomfort so I thought I’d try to give some pointers.
I would emphasise this isn’t exhaustive or even particularly comprehensive, so if you have pain try different approaches. See a professional! Other solutions could be standing desks and kneeling chairs.
I have had some training in posture, and have a lot of practical experience in troubleshooting people’s issue, but I’m not an ergonomic specialist so any feedback or things I’ve missed please do feel free to point them out and I will amend this document.
For sitting down in a way to minimize pain there is one key things to remember. A few slight adjustments can make a huge difference over time.
Sightline. Everything else follows from that. If your sightline is right your body tends to self organise better.
Most advice out there is about computer work position, so I’ve tried to adapt this advice for hobbying.
I’ve taken some pictures to illustrate.
At the computer. I’ve marked the key joints in red.
1. Sightline slightly downwards
2. Neck joint is above shoulders
3. Back straight and supported all the way up
4. Shoulders above hips
5. Elbows supported
6. Feet in front of knees
Picture 2. (How you shouldn’t do it!)
Hobby from the same seated position. Lamp is positioned in front of me. This is a bad posture.
1. Lightsource isn’t far enough forward
2. Sightline is very down
3. Neck is stressed, forward of shoulder
4. Back is curved, unsupported
5. Shoulders are forward of hip
I’ve adjusted my chair so that when I am holding the mini with supported elbows my head is much more level with it, so the sightline is better. I’ve moved my chair height down significantly and made sure lamp is positioned much further towards me.
1. As light is above me I don’t have to lean forward
2. Sightline is slightly downwards
3. Neck joint is in decent position
4. Back is straight and supported
5. Feet in front of knees
The original post is here : https://www.facebook.com/groups/eaviermetal/permalink/2810228399041353/
Thanks a lot Mr Bigg !!
Spoiler alert: I am painting in an even worse position than the 2. To give you an idea my Wrist are on the edge of my desk ^^ it's bad i know :(
Painting Tutorial : Quick Non Metallic Metal with Contrast Paint
Hello everyone !!
Since the Contrast Paints have been released I have been trying a lot different ways to paint weapons. Also, these days pro painters make NMM with a very dark flat section of the blade and a white part on the edge. As i am painting an IronJaws army, i wanted to have this style of Nmm on my weapons. Off course as i plan to have two max units of Black Orcs i needed a time efficient way of painting weapons.
I just want to share the steps before showing details just so you know where this is going.
The method is quite easy and I made some photos to show what I did on the weapon.
Simply primed the weapon in white with my airbrush and some white Stynylrez. Don't forget that if your priming is not very thin/flat the contrast paint is not going to flow well and make bad streak. In this scenario just apply a thin coat of Gloss Varnish to help the contrast paint to flow better.
One thin coat of undiluted Contrast Space Wolves Grey. Just avoid too much pooling but it's super easy to do.
Highlights the edge of the blade (on the right of the dark line) with Fenrisian Grey. I use an Airbrush because it's faster but it's 100% doable with a brush ^^ On this blade I Highlight the white circle and in the direction of the arrows, knowing that my brightest spot is going to be there. Don't make an opaque coat, try to keep some of the color showing under to make it more interesting.
First Highlight of the blade edge.
More highlight including more and more white.
Final Highlight (i notice that i forgot to highlight the circle)
Then I am going to shade the flat section of the blade (left of the white line). Shading using Abyssal Blue from scale 75 in the direction of the white arrow.
Alternate paints option: Dark Reaper GW, Dark sea blue from Vallejo, coal-black from P3. All are dark blue with a tint of green.
Both side of the blade once shaded.
Here do an edge Highlight with pure white and draw a line between the edge and flat section. You can use pure white or add a little bit of blue. Depend on what you prefer. You can also mark the scratch with some pure light dot.
That's it for this short tutorial on how to make a quick NMM. It's really easy and looks quite good on the board. Off course if you want to up your game you can add red or brown on the flat and blood for the blood god marks. I'll do it tomorrow and update the post.
Airbrush : Iwata (0.3) and h&s evolution (0.5)
Brush : Redgrassgames (both of them)
Primer : Stynylrez
Redgrassgames Black Friday Offer !
Hello everyone !!
Redgrassgames is making Discount for Black Friday. So if you want to order something from them it's the right time.
Also I think they do Free Shipping on Friday.
ps : This is not an affiliate thing and we don't get any % of what is bought. But their brushes are my favourite (the palette too)
The Everchosen is Yohan Leduc, congratulation
Hello everyone !!
Everchosen have been crowned today.
The sun has set on the Citadel Colour Open Day, and we’re proud to announce that Yohan Leduc has been crowned the champion of Everchosen, our global painting competition!
Check his Fb for more pics, https://www.facebook.com/yohan.leduc/photos
He's a fine painter for sure ;)
Painting Ossiarch Bonereapers with Contrast paints
Hello everyone !!!
Following my post about the Mortek Guard models, I wanted to share a simple painting process for the Ossiarch.
Models are painted without the shield, it's 10 times easier and doesn't take much more time. So I glue the body (it's easy, it's only 2 parts) then the head and the weapon arm. Next, I glue it on a base and place it on a GW handle. lastly I glue the shield to paper clip inserted into a wine/champagne cap.
I use an airbrush but you can do it with a brush or a spray can, but it's easier with an AB (you can use a very cheap one from amazon if you only want to do zenithal)
-Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65)
-Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white.
-Then spray a thin coat of Gloss varnish, this step is optional but the Contrast paint flows a lot better with it, staining a lot less flat surface. So maybe you can avoid it on small skeletons like Ossiarch Mortek guards but if you plan to paint Space Marines with this method, always do a thin coat of gloss varnish to help the paint flow!
At the end you should have something close to this !
To be honest the previous step is 50% of the work all that left is applying contrast and then do some highlight.
Start with bones
-One coat of Squelleton Hordes contrast paint. Be neat plz and use a small brush on details and zone limit. I use a size 1 or 2 for the large area but I don't hesitate to bring a 2/0 for all the small zone like the hands, blade guard, top of the shield, helmet ...Contrast paints are super fast to use but you are going to lose a lot of time if you have to correct a lot of blunders.
ps: To correct a mistake with contrast, wait for the paint to dry then apply white and use contrast on it.
-Highlight the bones with an Off white, any off white is fine I used Mojave white from Scale 75 this time but Ushapti bones(gw) Jack bones from P3 would work too.
End result :
Armor and sword
-One coat of Space Wolves Grey from the contrast line, again use a small brush to avoid or at least limit mistakes ^^ (i used a 2/0 here).
-Highlight with pure white by doing a lining or some thin glazes.
-Pre Highlight with white on the part you want the most light red.
-Paint one thick coat of Contrast Blood Angels Red.
-Then Highlight the zone with white again
-Paint one thin coat of red (not contrast). Any intense red would work. But if you have some GW blood angel red it's even better.
If you want to spend a little more time you can add some shadow/highlight to increase the contrast a bit more (the light shadow value not the paint ^^).
-Add shadow with a dark blue/green, I use scale Abyssal blue, but Iron Coal from P3 is good too.
-Add highlight with a sky blue + white this time I used Bering blue by scale 75
It's not a big difference in the image but it makes the job IRL.
(obviously, i did it on the left Hecatos and not on the right Trooper)
Really easy and fast way to get decent models on the table. I prefer to go for stark highlight as it looks better on the battlefield.
Better to paint a small batch of models instead of one by one. Don't go crazy of the batch size as it can transform painting in a Chore :/ On the other hand, I usually do the priming in one big go as it's easy and relaxing to do.
Options : You can swap Space Wolves grey with basillicanum grey, red with green, purple or blue. You could even do the bones with another colour completely.
Hope you like it !
Ossiarch Bonereapers Navigation :