Hello everyone !!!

Now that Aeronautica Imperialis has been released, you maybe wondering what is the best choice for the Thunderbolt : Fury or Standard. The best choice is BOTH ! in fact the Thunderbolt is quite easy to magnetise if you follow this simple : How to magnetize a Thunderbolt Tutorial !!

The plan is to Magnetise the Body and The wings to hold the weapons noses and switch them when you need too. Allowing you to open the plan and close it when you need to change the nose.

1) Assemble both noses and weapons

The sprue have both weapons and nose so you just have to assemble both of them, super straight forward.

2) Assemble the main body of the plane

Tails, reactors, Engine, thrusther, take a few minutes and glue all that.

3) Assemble the wings of the plane

Nearly nothing assemble here, just clean the wings and glue the small reactors.

4) Gluing the First magnet in the plane body

I used 2 neodyme Magnets 4mm diameter and 2mm hight

Glue it like on the image (red circle) , there is a little hole that fit perfectly.

5) Gluing the Second magnet in wings

Cut a 1 cm sprue plastic stick. Glue it like on the picture (green contour) and then glue the magnet on it(red circle ! Don't screw up with the positive-negative side.

6) Enjoying your plane and extra tips !

• Before assembling wait the glue to be completely Dry !


• Do a mark with a pen on the Magnet to prevent screwing up the side


• Prime the model UNASSEMBLED


• Once Primed don't hesitate to file the connector to remove dried paint primer that could stuck the wing

Aeronautica Imperialis navigation :

Aeronautica Imperialis Pre orders
Warhammer 40000 : Aeronautica Imperialis review
Eavy Bommer preview
Aeronautica Imperialis twitch transcript with Andy Hoare teasing 5 factions in the game
Aeronautica Imperialis : How to magnetize a Thunderbolt Tutorial !! (Like an Ace)

/Cheers.
Bob.

Hello there !!

Just found this one on facebook, it was so good that i had to share it.
Very simple and good way to paint red, only used very common paint.

Top !

Tips : Army painter black don't cover much so if you reproduce with GW or Vallejo black thin a lot more than what he say in the video.

His channel just started but there is also a very good yellow tutorial.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8B8WMy0pfSHHw38pLfCdxA

/Cheers.
Bob.

Hello everyone !!

Very good article + Video about Deck building in Shadespire.

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2017/10/16/shadespire-deck-building-101-gw-homepage-post-4/

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Read this :

Do you want to take your painting to the next level? Have you always wanted to learn from the best? Well now you can with the ‘Eavy Metal Masterclass Weekend! Your ticket will cover a full two day course where you will learn a selection of the techniques that the ‘Eavy Metal team uses to produce incredibly painted models for Games Workshop.

Not only that your ticket provides everything you will need to take part – brushes, paints, models – so all you need to do is turn up! In addition you will get to take all the consumables with you – paints, brushes and models.

Day two will then give you the time to fully practice and refine the techniques you learned the previous day – with an ‘Eavy Metal team member on hand to offer advice, feedback and help you if anything starts to go awry!

In addition, the most valuable part of day two will be where we set aside an entire hour for you in a separate room where you will get one-to-one time with an ‘Eavy Metal team member from the previous day.

The date is 09-10 dec (2 more date planned)

The most important thing to bear in mind is that tickets will go on sale Monday 16th of October at 8:00AM from our usual website (www.eventbrite) and are EXTREMELY limited in number, so get in there quickly!

www.eventbrite is the website they use for managing booking.

So hyped for this !!

https://www.facebook.com/GWWarhammerWorld/

/Cheers.
bob.

hello everyone !!

This is the best video you will see today :D
A painting tutorial by Kujo about blue steel, it's quite close to the Ben Komets Dark sea blue metal, but without the green.
Anyway even if you don't plan to use these colors the method and the explanations are definitively worth your time. !!

10/10 !
Kujo painting channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyMPU99KvmxIMkD8NZQu1tA

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Very cool video by Ducan on how assemble Fw models (resin).
Learned a few new tricks ^^

You can click on the image to start the video

Or go there :

https://www.facebook.com/ForgeWorldUK/videos/1819108478106424/

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Duncan released a new painting tutorial, this time for the lord of contagion !
very nice and easy (but not as good as atia colors ^^)

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2017/06/15/part-4-painting-the-lord-of-contagion-june15gw-homepage-post-4/

/cheers.
bob.

Morning everyone !!!

I finished the zenithal on my primaris.

As a reminder, my painting posts are here
Post 1 : https://war-of-sigmar.herokuapp.com/bloggings/2104
Post 2 : https://war-of-sigmar.herokuapp.com/bloggings/2125

Hot Glue Gun
To gain time i used a tool i saw on a video a few month ago, where the painter was using hot glue gun to chain attach models to plasticards for super fast airbrushing. It was the first time i used the hot glue gun on a large number of models but it went smoothly, nothing difficult here. Plug the gun, draw a line of glue, place the base on the glue. Dry in 15 seconds, miniatures are safely attached but you can remove the glue with your nails easily.


4 bands of plasticard and attached Primaris.(i know they are already primed but the non primed photo was too blurry^^)

I was then ready to prime them all in one go :
Primed black with GW black, then i primed grey with Vallejo grey primer at 45° angle, then 90° white zenithal with Vallejo white primer.

Result :

Then I did the weapon separately :

For a good usage of Vallejo primer : Use high pressure (2 bars), spray close, thin with vallejo thinner, make 2 thin pass. Let it cure overnight.

The whole step from gluing, cutting, priming and cleaning the airbrush took less than 1h30.(super fast.)
Starting the red shortly i will keep track of time for the red glaze step.

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!!

This is the continuation of the last tutorial (painting red : LINK
If you didn't read it, stop here and check it out before continuing ;)

Let's start !

As usual i started with Priming black with a GW can.

It's worth noting that i kept, head, bolter + arms and main body separate.

Look a the new bolters arms connector

Grey zenithal

At first i planned to do everything with thinned white but it's faster to a grey pass ! You get a very good gradient and it's easier.
Of course i had to clean the airbrush but if you do the whole starter set or a bunch of red marines in one go it's worth it.
Just do it with a 45°/60° angle and not 90° like normal zénithal.

For reference :
Grey zénithal at 45°



White zénithal at 90°

My white zenithal

Getting cute and smooth transition very easily. I swear you can do it with nearly no skill with an airbrush and even with a cheap Chinese made.

RED
Took super thinned down red at 8 waters 2 paints
Not mephisto red because i left my pot open the other day and it's all dried now. I used scale75 red.

1 pass

6 or 7 pass

I know it's shinny ! It's because i took the pic before the model was completely dry.

Black lining

Nothing special here, take black and paint line between armor plates^^.
If you use a dark color but not black, the result will look more realist and less "comics"
From here it's nearly complete on the red. All that left is painting edge highlight with Wild Rider Red from gw.

Completed model :

Bolter was painted black with grey lining.
Metal is : Boltgun, nuln oil, lining.
Leather pouch : used my old snakebite leather + tank brown from vallejo and white for hilight.
Chest-plate is : brown, gold, sepia wash, silver overbrush.
Edge highlight with Wild Rider Red.

Nothing incredible but the result look nice, it's a lot better in real life as the red gradient don't show much on picture. I really tried to get a good picture of it but i failed ^^ Check the first red tutorial for better images.
I painted this one in 1h30 i think but you can do a lot faster by painting a batch of them it's Should not be too hard to get the time in the 1h or 45 minutes per marines.

Still wondering about the base maybe "Hero base" for everyone ^^

note : It was my first time painting a Primaris and i loved it. They are so much better than the old marines.
I am not sure i want a Primaris army but now i can't go back to old angels ! The new models are so cool i cant wait to start painting the rest of the starter kit.

Hope it help you paint red.

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

8th is around the corner and maybe you plan to paint a new army or paint a grey one that have been collecting dust ;).
Red is often considered a problem color. And I used to agree until a painter(a real one) explained to me how to paint red the smart way.
To do this we need to think about the pro and cons of red.

Cons
Bad coverage.
Can't highlight with white. (you get pink)

Pro
Translucent paint .
Glaze friendly

So red is a paint that you can see trough !! unless you do multiple coats.

With that in mind, I want to share an easy way to paint blood angel(and red) using an Airbrush.
You don't need an expensive one to do this, i did it with with a 17$ Chinese airbrush to see if i was working.
It's even possible to do it with spray paint can and brush, but it take a bit of skill to get the glaze right (it's super good training thought)

Red paint is translucent so we usually prime white to get good coverage in 2 thing coats.
This time we are going to use a black preshading + white zenithal to change the red coverage on the model.
Enough blabla let's get to it!

Priming the model

Nothing special here you just prime the model black using the method you prefer.
If you plan to play with your mini it's better to use a good old gw black(Thin and sturdy.)

We are going to use the black as a preshading to skip the shading part (usually done with an ink in gw video).
Faster and cleaner as you don't need to clean the stains ink's wash tend to do.

Zénithal Highlight

Now that we have shade, we need to highlight. No rocket science here just spray white from the top of the model to simulate the light coming from the sky ! (from the zenith)

If you don't have an airbrush you can do it with a white spray can. And if you have only brush and paint, you can do it with a HEAVY white dry-brush (more like an overbrush) but only by the top.


You should get something like this :

The model should look white while looking from top and Dark while looking from bottom.

Red glaze 1

Now it's time to spray red, the tricks is to get a very very very very thin paint. Something close to a glaze (85% water/15 paint). It's easier to spray it but you can do it with a brush too. No need to spray at a particular angle you are going to do coats and coats of paint until you like the red !.

ps: If you do it with a brush it's a good glazing training, same dilution, only LITTLE paint on the brush (no seriously very little) it should dry in less than 1 minutes. ALWAYS use the flat of the brush from dark to light. Alternatively you can do it with a red ink or even the gw red wash^^.

After 1 coat :



After one coat the model look very bad and it's normal. The paint sprayed is very thinned down and very little at a time.
Correct procedure should be : One short burst of paint then one short burst of air, rotate the model, repeat.
Don't worry, it's not time consuming, alternating paint and air is actually very fast once you are used too and you can do a whole model in 3 minutes.

Result After 5 or 6 coats (didn't even took 3 minutes.) :



Maybe it's not apparent on the image but you get a very nice red (used Mephiston red from gw but you can do it with any red.).
The best part is you get a nice blend of dark red to light red without doing anything complex.
I'll be honest this is not a studio level technique but there are a lot of way to refine it. (more on this in a later article on my red Primaris ^^)

Black lining

Black lining is the solution to increase the color separation (so your eyes record easily part separation)
Take black paint and a nice brush (one with a crisp point) and draw small black line to separate armor zone, or details .
The goal is something like this :



(sloppily executed but you get the idea)

Edge highlight and orange lining

Nothing special here orange on the edge of the armor and if you feel motivated you can draw orange line next to the black line to improve contrast.

note : Black lining and edge highlight are techniques that take a little time to get used to. But once you get the muscle memory it's fast(ish) and increase the quality of your painting.
2 tips :
1)Use the side of the brush for edge highlight.
2) Hold the brush like a pen and not like Picasso working on a 2by2 canvas ^^

All that left is painting details : seal, metal tube and so on.

From priming to edge highlight it took me 30 minutes i guess. Y
It took a lot more time writing this than painting it ^^

You can even increase the speed by doing batch of models.
ex :
Prime the full squad.
Zenithal the full squad.
Glaze red the full squad.
Black line the full squad.
Edge highlight and orange lining the full squad.
Use base color to correct the full squad.

Paint used :
-Mephiston red
-Wild rider red (gw orange)
-scale 75 flat black
-vallejo air white

There are many way to take this model to the next level, i will make another post about this.

I hope you liked it and it help you paint red space marines.

/cheers.
bob.