Hello everyone !!

Since the Contrast Paints have been released I have been trying a lot different ways to paint weapons. Also, these days pro painters make NMM with a very dark flat section of the blade and a white part on the edge. As i am painting an IronJaws army, i wanted to have this style of Nmm on my weapons. Off course as i plan to have two max units of Black Orcs i needed a time efficient way of painting weapons.

Painting Steps list

I just want to share the steps before showing details just so you know where this is going.

• Prime white


• Paint the blade with Contrast Space Wolves Grey


• Highlight the edge surface of the blade with Fenrisian Grey


• Highlight the edge surface of the blade with Fenrisian Grey + White at 50/50


• Highlight the edge surface of the blade with Fenrisian Grey + White at 20/80


• Highlight the edge surface of the blade with White (i used pure white but didn't cleaned my Air Brush so there was a little of Fenrisian Grey)


• Shade the flat side of the blade with Abyssal Blue


• White Lining on weapon and on the scars

The Method

The method is quite easy and I made some photos to show what I did on the weapon.

Priming white

Simply primed the weapon in white with my airbrush and some white Stynylrez. Don't forget that if your priming is not very thin/flat the contrast paint is not going to flow well and make bad streak. In this scenario just apply a thin coat of Gloss Varnish to help the contrast paint to flow better.

Basing

One thin coat of undiluted Contrast Space Wolves Grey. Just avoid too much pooling but it's super easy to do.

Higlight of the Edge

Highlights the edge of the blade (on the right of the dark line) with Fenrisian Grey. I use an Airbrush because it's faster but it's 100% doable with a brush ^^ On this blade I Highlight the white circle and in the direction of the arrows, knowing that my brightest spot is going to be there. Don't make an opaque coat, try to keep some of the color showing under to make it more interesting.

First Highlight of the blade edge.

More highlight including more and more white.

Final Highlight (i notice that i forgot to highlight the circle)

Shading of the Flat

Then I am going to shade the flat section of the blade (left of the white line). Shading using Abyssal Blue from scale 75 in the direction of the white arrow.

Alternate paints option: Dark Reaper GW, Dark sea blue from Vallejo, coal-black from P3. All are dark blue with a tint of green.

Both side of the blade once shaded.

White edge Highlight

Here do an edge Highlight with pure white and draw a line between the edge and flat section. You can use pure white or add a little bit of blue. Depend on what you prefer. You can also mark the scratch with some pure light dot.

Final Result

That's it for this short tutorial on how to make a quick NMM. It's really easy and looks quite good on the board. Off course if you want to up your game you can add red or brown on the flat and blood for the blood god marks. I'll do it tomorrow and update the post.

Stuffs

Airbrush : Iwata (0.3) and h&s evolution (0.5)
Brush : Redgrassgames (both of them)
Primer : Stynylrez

/Cheers.
Bob.

Hello everyone !!!

Now that Aeronautica Imperialis has been released, you maybe wondering what is the best choice for the Thunderbolt : Fury or Standard. The best choice is BOTH ! in fact the Thunderbolt is quite easy to magnetise if you follow this simple : How to magnetize a Thunderbolt Tutorial !!

The plan is to Magnetise the Body and The wings to hold the weapons noses and switch them when you need too. Allowing you to open the plan and close it when you need to change the nose.

1) Assemble both noses and weapons

The sprue have both weapons and nose so you just have to assemble both of them, super straight forward.

2) Assemble the main body of the plane

Tails, reactors, Engine, thrusther, take a few minutes and glue all that.

3) Assemble the wings of the plane

Nearly nothing assemble here, just clean the wings and glue the small reactors.

4) Gluing the First magnet in the plane body

I used 2 neodyme Magnets 4mm diameter and 2mm hight

Glue it like on the image (red circle) , there is a little hole that fit perfectly.

5) Gluing the Second magnet in wings

Cut a 1 cm sprue plastic stick. Glue it like on the picture (green contour) and then glue the magnet on it(red circle ! Don't screw up with the positive-negative side.

6) Enjoying your plane and extra tips !

• Before assembling wait the glue to be completely Dry !


• Do a mark with a pen on the Magnet to prevent screwing up the side


• Prime the model UNASSEMBLED


• Once Primed don't hesitate to file the connector to remove dried paint primer that could stuck the wing

Aeronautica Imperialis navigation :

Aeronautica Imperialis Pre orders
Warhammer 40000 : Aeronautica Imperialis review
Eavy Bommer preview
Aeronautica Imperialis twitch transcript with Andy Hoare teasing 5 factions in the game
Aeronautica Imperialis : How to magnetize a Thunderbolt Tutorial !! (Like an Ace)

/Cheers.
Bob.

Hello there !!

Just found this one on facebook, it was so good that i had to share it.
Very simple and good way to paint red, only used very common paint.

Top !

Tips : Army painter black don't cover much so if you reproduce with GW or Vallejo black thin a lot more than what he say in the video.

His channel just started but there is also a very good yellow tutorial.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8B8WMy0pfSHHw38pLfCdxA

/Cheers.
Bob.

Hello everyone !!

Very good article + Video about Deck building in Shadespire.

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2017/10/16/shadespire-deck-building-101-gw-homepage-post-4/

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Read this :

Do you want to take your painting to the next level? Have you always wanted to learn from the best? Well now you can with the ‘Eavy Metal Masterclass Weekend! Your ticket will cover a full two day course where you will learn a selection of the techniques that the ‘Eavy Metal team uses to produce incredibly painted models for Games Workshop.

Not only that your ticket provides everything you will need to take part – brushes, paints, models – so all you need to do is turn up! In addition you will get to take all the consumables with you – paints, brushes and models.

Day two will then give you the time to fully practice and refine the techniques you learned the previous day – with an ‘Eavy Metal team member on hand to offer advice, feedback and help you if anything starts to go awry!

In addition, the most valuable part of day two will be where we set aside an entire hour for you in a separate room where you will get one-to-one time with an ‘Eavy Metal team member from the previous day.

The date is 09-10 dec (2 more date planned)

The most important thing to bear in mind is that tickets will go on sale Monday 16th of October at 8:00AM from our usual website (www.eventbrite) and are EXTREMELY limited in number, so get in there quickly!

www.eventbrite is the website they use for managing booking.

So hyped for this !!

https://www.facebook.com/GWWarhammerWorld/

/Cheers.
bob.

hello everyone !!

This is the best video you will see today :D
A painting tutorial by Kujo about blue steel, it's quite close to the Ben Komets Dark sea blue metal, but without the green.
Anyway even if you don't plan to use these colors the method and the explanations are definitively worth your time. !!

10/10 !
Kujo painting channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyMPU99KvmxIMkD8NZQu1tA

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Very cool video by Ducan on how assemble Fw models (resin).
Learned a few new tricks ^^

You can click on the image to start the video

Or go there :

https://www.facebook.com/ForgeWorldUK/videos/1819108478106424/

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!

Duncan released a new painting tutorial, this time for the lord of contagion !
very nice and easy (but not as good as atia colors ^^)

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2017/06/15/part-4-painting-the-lord-of-contagion-june15gw-homepage-post-4/

/cheers.
bob.

Morning everyone !!!

I finished the zenithal on my primaris.

As a reminder, my painting posts are here
Post 1 : https://war-of-sigmar.herokuapp.com/bloggings/2104
Post 2 : https://war-of-sigmar.herokuapp.com/bloggings/2125

Hot Glue Gun
To gain time i used a tool i saw on a video a few month ago, where the painter was using hot glue gun to chain attach models to plasticards for super fast airbrushing. It was the first time i used the hot glue gun on a large number of models but it went smoothly, nothing difficult here. Plug the gun, draw a line of glue, place the base on the glue. Dry in 15 seconds, miniatures are safely attached but you can remove the glue with your nails easily.


4 bands of plasticard and attached Primaris.(i know they are already primed but the non primed photo was too blurry^^)

I was then ready to prime them all in one go :
Primed black with GW black, then i primed grey with Vallejo grey primer at 45° angle, then 90° white zenithal with Vallejo white primer.

Result :

Then I did the weapon separately :

For a good usage of Vallejo primer : Use high pressure (2 bars), spray close, thin with vallejo thinner, make 2 thin pass. Let it cure overnight.

The whole step from gluing, cutting, priming and cleaning the airbrush took less than 1h30.(super fast.)
Starting the red shortly i will keep track of time for the red glaze step.

/cheers.
bob.

Hello everyone !!!

This is the continuation of the last tutorial (painting red : LINK
If you didn't read it, stop here and check it out before continuing ;)

Let's start !

As usual i started with Priming black with a GW can.

It's worth noting that i kept, head, bolter + arms and main body separate.

Look a the new bolters arms connector

Grey zenithal

At first i planned to do everything with thinned white but it's faster to a grey pass ! You get a very good gradient and it's easier.
Of course i had to clean the airbrush but if you do the whole starter set or a bunch of red marines in one go it's worth it.
Just do it with a 45°/60° angle and not 90° like normal zénithal.

For reference :
Grey zénithal at 45°



White zénithal at 90°

My white zenithal

Getting cute and smooth transition very easily. I swear you can do it with nearly no skill with an airbrush and even with a cheap Chinese made.

RED
Took super thinned down red at 8 waters 2 paints
Not mephisto red because i left my pot open the other day and it's all dried now. I used scale75 red.

1 pass

6 or 7 pass

I know it's shinny ! It's because i took the pic before the model was completely dry.

Black lining

Nothing special here, take black and paint line between armor plates^^.
If you use a dark color but not black, the result will look more realist and less "comics"
From here it's nearly complete on the red. All that left is painting edge highlight with Wild Rider Red from gw.

Completed model :

Bolter was painted black with grey lining.
Metal is : Boltgun, nuln oil, lining.
Leather pouch : used my old snakebite leather + tank brown from vallejo and white for hilight.
Chest-plate is : brown, gold, sepia wash, silver overbrush.
Edge highlight with Wild Rider Red.

Nothing incredible but the result look nice, it's a lot better in real life as the red gradient don't show much on picture. I really tried to get a good picture of it but i failed ^^ Check the first red tutorial for better images.
I painted this one in 1h30 i think but you can do a lot faster by painting a batch of them it's Should not be too hard to get the time in the 1h or 45 minutes per marines.

Still wondering about the base maybe "Hero base" for everyone ^^

note : It was my first time painting a Primaris and i loved it. They are so much better than the old marines.
I am not sure i want a Primaris army but now i can't go back to old angels ! The new models are so cool i cant wait to start painting the rest of the starter kit.

Hope it help you paint red.

/cheers.
bob.